Restaurant Review: Krasi
Krasi — 48 Gloucester St, Boston, MA 02115
Tucked away off Newbury Street in the modest space once home to Cafe Jaffa is Krasi, a restaurant specializing in Greek meze and wine. Since its opening five years ago, Krasi has become one of the most popular spots in Boston, with reservations booking up weeks in advance.
I have dined at Krasi several times, but prior to my most recent visit, I had not been there for dinner since the departure of their former executive chef, Valentine Howell. Jerry Pabla now holds that role, and his Krasi is not the Krasi of old.
The Space
With its shotgun bar along one wall and tables along the other, Krasi makes the most of its narrow space. Its high ceilings ward off any sense of claustrophobia, as do the large accordion windows up front that can be (and are) opened on warm evenings. The cheeky artwork of Greek gods along the walls pays tribute to the restaurant’s Hellenic roots while lending the space a fun, eclectic vibe. Meanwhile, the wooden chairs with wicker seats are a nod to tradition, resembling the chairs often found at Greek tavernas.
Krasi’s dining space
The restaurant has a relaxed, slightly upscale atmosphere, with diners dressed nicely but not formally. As for its sound level, that is entirely dependent on the time of day. During this visit, I was in the first seating at 5:00pm, and it was fairly quiet. When I have dined at Krasi later in the evening, however, it has been considerably louder to the point where carrying on a conversation has been difficult.
The Food
Krasi’s menu comprises a variety of meze, or shareable small plates, organized by type (meat, seafood, garden, dips, cheese, charcuterie, and bread). I generally find three – or maybe four if I’m feeling peckish – dishes to be sufficient when dining with another person. As neither my husband nor I was inordinately hungry, we settled on three dishes, beginning with Gkogkes. This dish consisted of house-made olive oil pasta served with snap peas, ramps, mint, and grated mizithra, a Greek cheese typically made from goat or sheep’s milk whey. The presentation was somewhat lacking, owing to the mound of grated cheese that obscured the pasta underneath. As for the taste, it was a mixed bag. The peas and mint lent the dish a fresh, spring flavor, but the overabundance of cheese made it a touch too salty. The pasta, however, was cooked to al dente perfection.
Gkogkes, $18
The next dish, Pitaroudes (chickpea-and-onion fritters with tahini and carrot-parsley tabouleh), was my least favorite. Visually, it was a mess. The fritters had an off-putting greasy sheen, and the tabouleh was haphazardly plopped atop them. The icing on the cake, though, was the half dozen or so flower petals unceremoniously placed on the tahini; I couldn’t help but imagine that someone had added them in an attempt to atone for the fritters’ unappealing appearance.
Unfortunately, the dish was as tasty as it was comely. The fritters were devoid of flavor; what little flavor there was was derived entirely from the accouterments. Whoever prepared the dish had also been rather heavy-handed with the salt.
Pitaroudes, $14
Given the lackluster nature of the previous two dishes, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the third dish, Garides (grilled shrimp with caper butter served atop Santorini fava and a fava bean salad), was pleasing to not only the eyes but also the taste buds. The shrimp was succulent with a delicate smokiness and slight brininess. Its tenderness was nicely offset by the firmness of the fava beans, which, together with the Santorini fava, added a subtle earthiness to the dish.
Garides, $22
The Service
The service was friendly but largely inattentive. Our waiter, while nice, would often disappear for long periods, making it difficult to ask questions or put in additional food or drink orders. We also were not provided with clean plates for each course.
Overall
Knowing what Krasi has been capable of in the past, I find myself rather disappointed by its current state. The dishes are less cohesive and more muddled, consisting of elements that clash and overpower instead of complement and balance. I can’t help but feel that Krasi has lost its way. It was once great, but now, it teeters on average.
| Rating: 6.5/10
-Julia
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